Filigree is a traditional jewelry-making technique known for its delicate craftsmanship. It involves twisting ultra-fine gold or silver wires in pairs, flattening them, and carefully arranging them onto a pre-made framework, also in gold or silver, to create intricate designs.
I. Metals
Melting
The journey of a filigree piece begins with melting gold or silver. The metal is placed in a crucible and heated in the forge to around 900°C until it turns into liquid.
Shaping
Using tongs, the molten metal is carefully poured into a grooved iron mold, shaping it into a long bar. This bar is then hammered and stretched into a thin sheet. Once ready, the artisan transfers the design onto the metal and carefully cuts it out, either by hand or using a saw.
II. Wire Crafting
where filigree begins
This is the most delicate and vital step. The fine, hand-twisted wire forms the very soul of filigree—every curve and pattern starts here.
Wire Crafting
To create the delicate filigree wire, the metal is first melted and poured into a mold to form a rough wire shape. It is then hammered on an anvil and gradually thinned using a series of special tools until it reaches the perfect fine gauge—sometimes as thin as 0.2mm.
Wire Twisting
Two of these fine wires are then twisted together by hand, a step that gives filigree its signature lace-like appearance. To ensure they bond well, the twisted wires are heated to about 700°C, softening the metal. Finally, they are flattened with a rolling mill, making them lighter and more pliable, ready to be woven into intricate filigree patterns.
III. Framing and Filling the Jewelry Piece
The art of filling the filigree frame with fine, twisted wires shaped into delicate patterns.
The Structure
The frame forms the structure of the filigree piece, defining the spaces that will later be filled with delicate wirework. It is crafted from gold or silver strips, shaped and sized using a rolling mill. These strips are then contoured to create both the outer shape and inner details, giving the piece its strength and character.
Shaping patterns
Filling a filigree creation means weaving fine, twisted wire into the open spaces of the metal frame. The wire, carefully flattened and thinned, is shaped into graceful patterns.
With a jeweler’s clamp or tweezers, the artisan coils and arranges the wire, closing every delicate gap.
These are the precise movements that bring filigree’s lace-like beauty to life.
Portuguese Filigree traditional patterns
Viana Heart
Arrecadas Earrings
Princess Earrings
Laça
Carmo's Commitment to Innovation
A new wave of artisans—many trained in design, jewelry making, and traditional filigree techniques—are bringing fresh creativity to Portuguese filigree. This craft now thrives through artisans who blend technical mastery with artistic vision, redefining tradition without losing its soul.
Even abstract or unconventional shapes can earn official certification, as long as they preserve the essence of filigree’s techniques and Portuguese heritage.
Joalharia do Carmo proudly supports this new generation of designers and artisans, contributing to the evolution of this timeless art form. In this spirit, we offer our own exclusive collection of jewelry pieces—crafted with innovative shapes and designs that honor the tradition of filigree while embracing its exciting future.
